For five years, Erst lingered on our radar like a cryptic postcard from a faraway land—intriguing yet elusive. Two blocks from home in Ancoats, and still we hesitated. Why? Because Erst is a mystery. Its website offers little more than a whisper: “Natural Wine Bar and seasonal small plates.” A sample menu that reads like a culinary riddle. Beetroot, ajo blanco, tarator—tell me more! We joked that it was all cold beetroot and raw fish. And yet, those who had ventured in returned with glowing praise.
So, on a cold, wet Tuesday in December, we finally crossed the threshold. The catalyst? An irresistible AMEX Platinum offer: spend £150, get £150 back. Even if it was awful, it would be “free.” Spoiler: it wasn’t awful.
Inside, Erst is intimate yet bustling, candlelight flickering against bare walls. Our “bar table” turned out to be a high-top in the centre of the room—arguably the best seat in the house. The host whisked away our coats with reassuring precision, sensing our urban paranoia. Ancoats may be gentrified, but old habits die hard.
Louis, our waiter, was a revelation. Enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and determined to steer us beyond our comfort zone. We confessed our love for Albariño (usually procured during Asda’s 25% off wine sale). Louis countered with a taste of Apremont Vin de Savoie, Domaines des 13 Lunes 2022—mineral, subtle fruit, somewhere between Albariño and Sauvignon. We were sold.
Then came the food. Oh, the food.
Grilled Flatbread with Walnut Tarator and Sage
Thick, puffy, defiant under its topping. The walnut tarator—Lebanese in origin, reimagined here—was nutty, velvety, almost caramelised without sweetness. Sage leaves scattered like confetti. A dish that silences conversation.
Salame di Finocchio
Nine perfect slices of fennel-scented salami. Simple, balanced, sublime.
Beetroot with Ajo Blanco and Green Chilli
A dish that’s been on the menu since day one. At first bite, beetroot and ajo blanco felt polite. Add the chilli, and suddenly it’s a party—heat tempered by creamy gazpacho, sweetness amplified. Lesson: combine everything.
Cuttlefish, Chickpeas & Rouille
Described as a stew, and what a stew it was. Generous chunks of firm cuttlefish in an intense, almost soulful gravy, crowned with French rouille. We longed for more bread to mop up every drop.
Fried Potatoes with Crème Fraîche & Three-Cornered Leek
Crisp to the point of obsession, salted like the North Sea, rescued by a tangy, chive-laced dip. Scandinavian vibes, Manchester swagger
Pork Chop with Green Sauce & Bitter Leaves
Boneless, thankfully, but unapologetically fatty at one end. The meat? Rich, tender, almost Iberico-like. The green sauce—garlic, vinegar, olive oil—cut through with acidic brilliance. Radicchio added a bitter crunch.
By now, we’d upgraded to a bottle of Eulogio Pomares ‘Sal da Terra’ Albariño 2021. Champagne-like elegance, crisp and complex—a wine that elevated every bite.
We skipped dessert, but left with a revelation: Erst is unlike anywhere else. It doesn’t shout; it whispers. It doesn’t conform; it creates. And once you’ve been, you understand why the mystery exists—because Erst defies definition.
Next time? The ribeye, those addictive potatoes, and a bold red. Because some secrets deserve to be revisited.