Some culinary experiences feel fleeting, like catching the last rays of summer before dusk. That’s how it felt when we learned ONDA pasta bar would soon leave Exhibition at the end of July. But fortune favoured us: their new venture at New Cross promised a tasting menu launch, and at £30 a head, we didn’t hesitate.
First Impressions
The New Cross wears its warehouse aesthetic unapologetically—bare bones, industrial edges, and a seating arrangement reminiscent of an exam hall. At first glance, the close-set tables seemed a recipe for discomfort, but as the evening unfolded, the intimacy felt more communal than cramped. We perched at a green table on stools, my white linen blazer clinging to me like a fragile promise. No hooks, no hangers—just a silent prayer against spillage.
Orders were placed at the bar, where cheerful staff radiated warmth and efficiency. Drinks were reasonably priced, cocktails tempting, and wine mercifully shy of the usual extortionate mark. ONDA was only in its second week here, and while a smoky interlude triggered the alarms mid-service (at least they work!), the hiccup barely dented the mood.
The Menu Unfolds
Antipasti
The evening began with Focaccia, Olives, Capezzana Olive Oil, and Balsamic Vinegar. The focaccia was a revelation—pillowy soft with a salted crust, elevated by the silky embrace of olive oil and balsamic.
Then came a vibrant plate of roasted peppers, rocket, burrata, and salumi. Alone, the peppers and burrata felt pleasant but unremarkable; paired with the salumi, they sang—a harmony of creamy, smoky, and salty notes.
Pizzetta
Patience was tested as the next course lingered, but when the Pizzetta arrived, all was forgiven. A courgette-topped marvel with an airy crust that defied expectation. It was a dish that whispered of Michelin-level finesse—proof that simplicity, in the right hands, can astonish.
Pasta
For the pasta course, we chose Tortelloni Bolognese—open dumplings cradling pork mince, kissed by tomato ragù and crowned with cherry tomatoes, a white sauce (Bechamel, perhaps), and a snowfall of Parmesan. Comfort food, reimagined.
Carne
Then came the showstopper: Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. Wood-fired sirloin, sourced from Littlewoods Butchers, glistening under brown butter and lemon.
At £45 extra, this was indulgence incarnate. Requested medium-rare, it arrived closer to blue—a nod to Tuscan tradition, perhaps. As it rested, the meat mellowed, revealing tenderness and depth. The smoke that filled the room? Likely the price of perfection.
Dolce
Finally, Cherry Stracciatella—milky gelato streaked with cherry sauce, crowned with chocolate shavings. By then, we were gloriously full, wishing for a bolder cherry punch but savouring every spoonful nonetheless.
The Wine
Two bottles of Il Folle Nero d’Avola kept pace with the feast—a Sicilian red, vegan and organic, laced with blackberry and vanilla. At £27, it was the cheapest on the list, yet effortlessly drinkable.
Final Thoughts
ONDA’s tasting menu at The New Cross was a journey—imperfect in places, but brimming with promise. From the ethereal focaccia to the audacious pizzetta and the primal allure of Bistecca, it was a night that lingered long after the last sip of wine. I’ll be back—if only to chase that courgette-laced crust on a Thursday pizza night.