Getting There: The Long Way Round
Our trip to Seattle started not with a direct flight, but with a meticulously planned British Airways tier point run. Before status rules changed, we were all about elaborate multi-city routes for maximum reward. To begin, we positioned ourselves in Barcelona for two nights, not just for the points, but to savour another European city before heading west.
Our full loop was: Barcelona – London Heathrow – New York JFK – Los Angeles – Seattle – Los Angeles – New York – Barcelona. Each layover brought a mix of exhaustion, excitement, and surprisingly memorable meals.
1. Barcelona to London Heathrow
The day started pre-dawn in Barcelona. with a swift nap in the tranquil Sala VIP Joan Miró lounge before a 7:45am flight. The lounge, with its morning calm, offered a delicious morning spread. Albeit a little too early for me to contemplate consuming.
Photos snapped in the lounge are a testament to our bleary-eyed anticipation at the start of this transatlantic marathon.
2. London Heathrow to New York JFK
My poached prawn salad was a study in contrasts: the prawns were well-cooked but the horseradish ketchup was missing its bite, and the baby gem lettuce was mostly stalk, though the side of marinated beetroot, Granny Smith slices, and goat’s curd livened everything up.
My husband, always up for a good soup, was rewarded with a spicy roasted red pepper bowl—British Airways does excel at soups.
Afternoon tea rounded off the flight, offering an array of miniature bites that made us forget, momentarily, we were cruising at 36,000 feet.
3. New York JFK to Los Angeles
The New York to Los Angeles flight was a model of efficiency. Champagne and hot towels on boarding, followed swiftly by a bowl of warm mixed nuts and a crisp gin and tonic.
My husband’s barbecue short rib was melt-in-the-mouth, paired with seasonal veggies and buttery new potatoes.
Dessert was the iconic American Airlines sundae: Haagen-Dazs vanilla ice cream with every topping I could get my hands on—pecans, butterscotch syrup, fruit—defeated only by its sheer size.
4. Los Angeles to Seattle
In Los Angeles, our brief overnight at the airport Hilton (a familiar layover) was followed by our much-loved ritual: breakfast in the Qantas First Class Lounge.
The summer 2024 menu tempted us with raspberry yoghurt, runny poached eggs, fluffy buttermilk pancakes with mango and coconut yoghurt, and house lemonade spiked with ginger, lemongrass, kaffir lime, and lemon.
We took our time, let breakfast settle, then returned for lunch (about an hour later).
Reuben sandwiches with sauerkraut and pickles, and a portion of Korean yang-nyum fried chicken tacos. Even after all this, the food was so good we were barely able to resist ordering more.
The flight from Los Angeles to Seattle was memorable for less pleasant reasons: our hand luggage was gate-checked with no warning (there simply wasn’t space on the tiny jet) and the cabin crew left much to be desired. We each managed a gin and tonic before napping for most of the short hop north, ignoring the onboard meal offerings.
Seattle baggage claim proved chaotic, but after a short wait and some insider tip from another traveller, we escaped into the city.
Where we stayed: Sonder at Pivot
Seattle accommodation proved pricier than hoped, so we settled on Sonder at Pivot, booking via Booking.com with a 15% Genius discount.
The Capitol Hill apartment, built in 2023, had a clean, modern feel (apart from a retro shower curtain over the bath) and a vibe reminiscent of university halls. Our King Room was spacious and quiet, with a well-equipped kitchen and easy access to Capitol Hill (described by Wanderlust Magazine as “cool but edgy”). Sometimes, simple and functional is just what you need after a long journey.
Eating Our Way Through Seattle
1. Pagliacci Pizza - Capitol Hill
Our first Seattle dinner from Pagliacci was a classic over-order: a 17-inch pizza (half PSR Combo; half 12th Fan Primo) and, due to a kitchen mix-up, a bonus 13-inch South Philly and PSR Combo.
Toppings were generous and the base was the ideal New York style—thin but sturdy. The 12th Fan Primo, with Mama Lil’s peppers, pepperoni, salami, chicken, olives, and mozzarella, took top honours.
The South Philly, with Italian sausage, mushrooms, onions, and mozzarella, was a surprise favourite. By the end, we’d eaten enough for a small crowd and had a new appreciation for Seattle’s pizza game.
2. La Panier - Pike Place Market
At Pike Place Market, we gravitated to Le Panier, a French bakery with rows of fruit tarts, macarons, and bread.
Choosing just one pastry was a struggle, but in the end a sugar-dusted brioche framboise—with croissant-like layers and a raspberry jam centre—won out.
While it couldn’t beat the kouign amann I’d once tasted in San Diego, it was still the perfect market pick-me-up.
3. Jade Garden - Chinatown
Jade Garden, recommended by Lonely Planet Pocket Guide for Seattle, quickly became our go-to for dim sum.
On our first visit, mid-afternoon on a Wednesday, we were greeted by QR code menus and a big pot of Chinese tea (something I had tried for the first time at Mothers Dumplings in Toronto). The prawn and chive steamed dumplings and pork potstickers were fresh and bursting with flavour. On a hunch, we ordered Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings, which arrived massive and crispy, seasoned with plenty of garlic.
The prawn and chive steamed dumplings and pork potstickers were fresh and bursting with flavour. On a hunch, we ordered Salt and Pepper Chicken Wings, which arrived massive and crispy, seasoned with plenty of garlic.
The next evening, we returned for prawn spring rolls (egg rolls packed with huge prawns), sesame chicken with sauce on the side (the long-sought crispy fried chicken), beef with ginger and spring onion, and classic egg fried rice.
We ended up boxing half our meal as the portions were enormous, and the staff, eager to close early due to an overworked chef, gently hustled us out. Despite the abrupt end, the memory of garlic chicken and perfectly glazed beef lingered for the rest of the night.
4. Lil Woody’s Hamburger - Capitol Hill
One night, too tired to travel far, we tried Lil Woody’s, just across the street.
The burgers and fries didn’t live up to the promise. My husband’s quarter pounder was more reminiscent of a microwaved petrol station snack, and the fries were limp and unevenly cooked.
My Cap Hill Fried Chicken Sandwich was acceptable, with a thick buttermilk coating and fresh tomato and lettuce, but the fries were beyond saving, even after a quick spin in the microwave.
5. Anchorhead Coffee Co
In need of caffeine before a day of sightseeing, we detoured to Anchorhead Coffee Co. Their flat white was rich and smooth, and their hot chocolate, sweet and subtle, was among the best I’ve had. It’s always worth seeking out good coffee on foot in a new city.
6. Moonrise Bakery - Queen Anne
Moonrise Bakery, at the start of Queen Anne’s main street, was an unexpected delight.
We sat on their petite outdoor patio, sharing a cinnamon twist (its croissant-style pastry flaky and laced with cinnamon-sugar), a flat white, and a custom Pineapple Matcha Tonic-turned-soda. The caprese sandwich was tempting, but after the pastry, even we had our limits.
7. Pinoyshki - Capitol Hill
On our final morning, we couldn’t resist Pinoyshki, a Filipino/Eastern European bakery on East Pike Street.
Their “Pinoyshki” pastries come with a variety of fillings. .
We went for a Cherry in Butterflake (flaky filo pastry with tart stewed cherries under a dusting of icing sugar) and a small but mighty baklava, dense with nuts and honey. Both were messy and just sweet enough—dangerously moreish if you lived nearby.
Sights and Strolls: Seattle Beyond the Plate
1. Pike Place Market
No foodie journal would be complete without Pike Place Market.
Dating back to 1907, it’s a vibrant sprawl of stalls: bouquets of fresh flowers, gleaming fish on ice, bakeries, fruit and veg stands, and Italian delis. While options for ready-to-eat food inside were limited, the surrounding streets were packed with everything from crumpet shops to gourmet coffee bars.
2. Sky View observation Deck
Faced with a choice between the Space Needle and Sky View Observation Deck, I followed the advice of fellow travelers and booked Sky View.
Perched on the 73rd floor, it offered sweeping, crowd-free city vistas. We reserved a 2pm slot online and arrived just ahead of a tour group, giving us plenty of space to soak up the 360° panorama. The elevator attendant even pointed out the highlights, including a bar and restaurant with its own set of admirers. We lingered for nearly an hour, watching the city from every angle.
3. Urban Walks: Space Needle, Kerry Park, Queen Anne
Seattle is a city made for walking—if you like hills. We headed out from Capitol Hill to the Space Needle, built for the 1962 World’s Fair, admiring its mid-century curves from below instead of paying to go up.
After a restorative stop at Anchorhead Coffee, we tackled the steep climb to Kerry Park.
The reward: more spectacular city views. Queen Anne, with its tree-lined high street and independent shops, was immaculate and inviting—an ideal spot to wander, window shop, and snack.
4. Boeing Everett Factory: Future of Flight Tour
As aviation fans, the Future of Flight Tour at the Boeing Everett factory was a must.
Getting there without a car meant a tough choice: two hours on public transport or an expensive but direct Uber. We opted for the latter, arriving just in time for a presentation on the Boeing 747 and a meander through the gift shop.
The tour itself was fascinating—a short film, a bus ride, and a behind-the-scenes look at the 777/777X assembly lines.
Our guide was knowledgeable and fielded every question we threw her way. The scale of the factory was staggering, and the stories behind each aircraft were captivating. The only downside was the cost and effort to get back into Seattle after a long day, but it was absolutely worth it for anyone who loves planes.
5. Volunteer Park & Capitol Hill Wanders
Our last morning was spent exploring Capitol Hill’s green spaces. We tried (unsuccessfully) to find the entrance to Lake View Cemetery to visit Bruce and Brandon Lee’s graves, but instead enjoyed an impromptu stroll through Volunteer Park. The park felt like a petite New York Central Park, with winding pathways and lush lawns—a peaceful way to end our Seattle story.
Heading Home: Food to the Finish Line
1. Seattle to Los Angeles
Leaving Seattle, we navigated a slightly chaotic check-in but found solace in the Alaska Airlines First Lounge. The food was simple (a DIY roll of cold meats and cheese), but the spicy Cajun nut mix was a new obsession.
2. Los Angeles to New York
At LAX, a final Qantas First Lounge meal—Black Angus Minute Steak, thin but flavourful—made for a memorable farewell
3. New York JFK to London Heathrow
At JFK, we visited the SoHo Lounge and sampled a beef burger and an excellent salmon and egg salad.
4. London Heathrow - Barcelona - London Heathrow - Manchester
The last legs—London to Barcelona, Barcelona to London andthen London to Manchester—were accompanied by one final round of buffet plates in the British Airways First Lounge, a random but comforting end to a marathon journey.
And here’s what we tried…
Final Thoughts
Seattle delivered three days full of detours, discoveries, and delicious bites. From pizza gluttony and dim sum feasts to market wanderings and Boeing’s gigantic hangars, we left with a camera roll full of meals and memories. If travel is about collecting experiences one sip, stroll, and plate at a time, then this trip was a feast in every sense of the word.