Lonely Planet calls São Paulo “one of the coolest cities on the planet,” and honestly, we couldn’t wait to see if it lived up to the hype.
Getting There: The Journey Before the Journey
Our adventure began with British Airways, flying Manchester → Heathrow → Rio de Janeiro. Predictable? Yes. Stress-free? Not quite.
We were using a British Airways American Express Premium Plus Companion Voucher—great in theory, but the booking process was a saga of website crashes and frantic searches. Eventually, Rio became our gateway, and São Paulo our first stop.
After a long-haul flight (and a disappointing lounge experience at Heathrow), we landed in Rio.
Food in British Airways Airport Lounge, London Heathrow Terminal B
Food on the British Airways Flight from London Heathrow to Rio de Janeiro
We freshened up at the Plaza Premium arrivals lounge (odd location in a car park and no showers, despite the promise), and hopped on a LATAM flight to São Paulo. By the time we arrived in Itaim Bibi, we were exhausted but ready to dive in.
Where We Stayed: Melia Jardim Europa
Our hotel, Melia Jardim Europa, promised five-star luxury and “Gold” status perks via Amex Platinum. Reality? Mixed. The lobby was sleek, but our room felt dated, and construction noise was relentless.
Perks included free breakfast and a gym with panoramic city views, but the “Gold” welcome gift—a lone cake on a grubby plate—was a miss. Would we stay again? Probably not.
Day 1: Comfort Food at Z Deli
After hours of travel, we craved something casual yet satisfying. Enter Z Deli, a hip spot just 15 minutes from the hotel. Think elevated sandwiches and craft beer in a buzzing atmosphere.
- ZFC (fried chicken): A generous portion of juicy, crispy chicken, with a tangy sour cream dip and gherkin garnish.
- Pastrami Sandwich: Rare, peppery pastrami on a milk roll with mustard-mayo and pickles—perfection.
- Reuben: Toasted rye, pastrami, cheese, sauerkraut, and special sauce.
- Fries with rosemary: Because why not?
- Brooklyn IPA: The ideal pairing.
We left full and happy, ready for a good night’s sleep.
Day 2: Markets, Missteps & Italian Comfort
We started at Mercado Municipal, hoping for a vibrant food scene. Instead, we found pushy vendors and limited variety—a far cry from Toronto’s St. Lawrence or London’s Borough Market.
Next stop: Japantown (Liberdade). Expectations were high; reality was underwhelming. Few appealing restaurants, and a tense drop-off near a homeless encampment didn’t help.
Deflated, we retreated to Eataly in Itaim Bibi. Familiar, safe, and delicious (note: Toronto and Los Angeles, are the best ones):
- Creamy gelato (almond + dulce de leche for me; vanilla + strawberry for him).
- Friendly staff who let us sample everything despite the language barrier.
The day ended on a high note with vibrant street art sightings in Itaim Bibi—a preview of what was to come.
Day 2 Evening: Pizza at A Fornada Padaria
A Fornada Padaria this unplanned find was a gem. Warm evening, outdoor seating, and a language-barrier adventure with wine selection. We shared:
- Calabrese Pizza: Mozzarella, sausage, onions, olives.
- Caprese Pizza: Basil pesto, buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes.
Thin, crispy crusts and generous toppings made for a memorable meal. The staff’s warmth—and their joy at a good tip—was the cherry on top.
Day 3: Pastries & Parque Ibirapuera
Morning indulgence: pastries from A Fornada Padaria.
- Chocolate-speckled “Danish”: More croissant-like, utterly divine.
- Almond Croissant: Sweet almond cream, sugar-dusted almonds—calorie heaven.
We packed them for a picnic at Parque Ibirapuera, São Paulo’s green jewel. Between lakes, museums, and wildlife, the park offered a serene escape from the city’s chaos.
Day 3 Evening: Margaritas & Tacos
Happy hour lured us to The Taco Shop—two-for-one margaritas and a menu that delivered:
- Shrimp Taco: Guacamole, melted cheese, parsley, crisp corn tortilla.
- Chicken Taco Gourmet: Toasted cheese, bacon, avocado—an instant favorite.
- Fish Taco Especial: Breaded white fish, guacamole, red cabbage on wheat tortilla.
The smallest portion of fries known to man…
Three rounds of tacos, two rounds of margaritas, and a bill that felt like a steal. The vibe? Casual, friendly, and full of personality.
Day 4: Street Art Pilgrimage & Burger Bliss
Our final day was dedicated to São Paulo’s street art, especially works by Eduardo Kobra. From Casal de Bicicleta to Senna – The Legend of Brazil, each mural was a burst of color and culture.
Beco do Batman was a highlight—a kaleidoscope of creativity in Vila Madalena.
Dinner was at Pão com Carne Hamburgeria, an industrial-chic burger joint.
We ordered:
- Cheese Salad Burger: 180g beef patty, cheese, lettuce, tomato—simple, flawless.
- Fries with mayo: One portion was plenty.
- Goose Island IPA: Crisp and refreshing.
The team’s enthusiastic “Obbbbriiggggaddddddooo” chant for every tip added a quirky, memorable touch.
In Summary
São Paulo surprised us. It wasn’t all smooth sailing—Mercado Municipal and Japantown fell flat, and our hotel missed the mark. But Parque Ibirapuera, Itaim Bibi’s food scene, and the city’s street art more than redeemed it. Would we return? Maybe not immediately, but never say never.
Next stop: Montevideo.