Montevideo wasn’t a city we knew much about when we pencilled it into our South America itinerary. It was a name whispered in passing, a promise of calm after the chaos of São Paulo. Two nights felt just right—enough to taste its rhythm without rushing through its soul.
Getting There: A Premium Economy Gamble
We flew LATAM Premium Economy from São Paulo, a repeat of our earlier hop from Rio. The dedicated check-in was swift, though oddly theatrical: bags tagged and then nudged behind the counter like forgotten props. No conveyor belt in sight. I crossed my fingers and resisted checking our tracking tile—sometimes ignorance is bliss.
Before boarding, we ducked into the LATAM Lounge in Terminal 3. It wasn’t the Qantas First Lounge at LAX (still the reigning champion in our books), but it did the job. We scored a seat with charging ports and grazed on a buffet of spinach and ricotta cannelloni, mini quiches, roasted potatoes, and cold cuts. The potatoes with salad were the star; the meats, sadly, were chewy. And those crisps? Red onion and sausage flavoured—more dog biscuit than snack.
Boarding was a comedy of errors: early announcements, sudden halts, and “special assistance” passengers shuffled on and off like reluctant extras. Eventually, we claimed our front-row seats (1A and 1C) and watched oversized bags parade past, making our 4-centimeter carry-on gamble seem quaint.
In-flight dining was… uninspired. A toasted baguette stuffed with ham, cheese, gherkins, and mystery meat, accompanied by more biscuit-like snacks and a timid strawberry mousse. No gin, just beer. Meh sums it up.
Landing in Montevideo was blissfully uneventful—quiet airport, quick exit. Sometimes, that’s all you need.
Where We Stayed: Boutique Bliss at SORO
Our home for two nights was SORO, Curio Collection by Hilton, a boutique gem in Pocitos. Check-in felt personal: seated, welcomed, and handed vouchers for a drink we never quite claimed. Our King Room with river view was a breath of modernity—contemporary, sleek, and a bathroom that felt refreshingly spacious.
Hilton Honors Gold perks sweetened the deal with artisanal chocolates and a handwritten note.
The rooftop terrace stole our hearts. A hot tub overlooking the sea and treadmills with ocean views, fantastic backdrop for a workout. Sunrise here was fiery skies melting into the horizon.
Day One: From Lemon Sponge to Panoramic Dreams
Breakfast at Tomas
We started with a complimentary breakfast at Tomas Restaurant in the hotel. Fried eggs crisped at the edges, yolks just shy of runny perfection. Then came the cakes—oh, the cakes. A lemon sponge so crumbly and divine it deserved its own sonnet.
Still riding the sugar high, we wandered to Bertha, almacén de pan, a petite bakery two streets away. Their pastries tempted, but we were too full to indulge. (Note: closed Sundays—Montevideo loves its rest.)
Port Market & Ciudad Vieja
An Uber whisked us to Mercado del Puerto, a misnomer if you expect a bustling market. It’s more parrillas and souvenir stalls than produce. Every grill master beckoned us in, but at noon, post-breakfast, we declined.
We drifted through Ciudad Vieja, where the extravagant architecture of Palacio Salvo loomed, once Latin America’s tallest building.
Street art punctuated the stroll: a vivid tribute to writer Eduardo Galeano by @cobreart and a fruit-draped lady whose gaze followed us down the cobblestones.
The View That Stole the Show
If Montevideo has a crown jewel, it’s the Mirador Panorámico atop the Intendencia building. The 22nd floor offers a 360° embrace of the city—terracotta rooftops, shimmering coastline, and a horizon that feels infinite. Free, serene, and almost deserted on a Saturday.
We lingered, photographing landmarks, and wishing time would pause.
Coastal Rambla
Our return to Pocitos traced the Rambla Presidente Wilson, a ribbon of road hugging the brown-hued Río de la Plata. Parks beckoned—Parque José Enrique Rodó among them—but we kept moving, scouting dinner spots and taking in the stunning scenery.
Dinner: La Otra Parrilla
Exhausted yet hungry, we sought comfort close to home. The hotel suggested La Otra, a Pocitos institution. At 7:30 pm, the place buzzed, flames dancing on the open grill. Extraction fans worked overtime—no smoky souvenirs on our clothes.
We toasted with a Caipirinha, sweet and shy compared to its Margarita cousin.
A garlicky sausage starter set the tone.
For mains: Top Sirloin, flavourful but stubbornly tough, and crispy-skinned chicken, tender and forgiving. Sides included fries, a gargantuan jacket potato drowning in Roquefort (note to self: butter next time), and a “mini” salad that could feed a family.
We paired it all with Tannat, Uruguay’s signature grape—pleasant but lacking the depth of an Italian Primitivo. The verdict? A meal that filled the belly, if not the memory book.
The Round Up
Montevideo surprised us—not with grandeur, but with quiet confidence. SORO redefined boutique luxury, the Mirador Panorámico gifted us endless skies, and the coastline whispered serenity. Two nights were enough to taste its essence, though not its finest cuisine. Next time, we’ll linger longer, chase more flavours, and let this city’s understated charm seep deeper into our wanderlust.