Before we set foot in Argentina, we hadn’t grasped the sheer scale of Buenos Aires. Two days would barely scratch the surface—a teaser for the city we knew we’d return to.
Getting There: Crossing the Brown Waters
Our journey began in Montevideo in Uruguay, with Buenos Aires shimmering across the Río de la Plata. Flying would have been fastest, but we opted for the next best thing: the ferry.
There are two main routes:
- Direct ferry from Montevideo via Buquebus
- Bus to Colonia del Sacramento, then ferry with Colonia Express or Buquebus
We chose the latter for timing and cost. The only direct ferry on Sunday was at 19:30, arriving close to 10 pm—and £70 pricier. Our combined bus-and-ferry ticket cost around £110, booked through Direct Ferries.
The confirmation email came with quirks:
- Print required (why, when digital works everywhere else?)
- Check-in closes 90 minutes before departure—unclear if for bus or ferry, so we played it safe and arrived early.
Colonia Express: The Bus Ride
The bus departs from Montevideo’s Terminal Tres Cruces., we hopped in an Uber from our hotel and checked in. Boarding passes in hand, we queued early—thanks to a tip from Comedy Travel Writing—and snagged decent seats on the upper deck.
The ride was comfortable enough: reclining seats, footrests, overhead storage, and onboard toilets (unused by us). The air was warm and faintly scented with sweaty feet, but nothing unbearable.
Journey time: 2.5 hours. We tucked into our bus-station picnic—a ham-and-cheese roll and a meat empanada—before dozing off as the Uruguayan countryside blurred past.
Colonia Express: The Ferry Crossing
Puerto Colonia greeted us with a luggage scrum, then immigration: two desks, two stamps—or so we thought. Turns out only Uruguay stamps you out.
Boarding began 40 minutes before departure. This time, we scored front-row seats. The crossing lasted 1 hour 15 minutes, with the Río de la Plata a very muddy brown. A little choppy, but nothing dramatic.
Where We Stayed: Palermo Soho Comfort
Our base: Live Soho Boutique & Apartments Palermo via Booking.com with a Genius discount and AVIOS earned through BA Shopping.
Check-in was digital: QR codes, door codes, and video instructions made entry seamless. The studio was compact—bed to the right, kitchenette to the left. Cooking wasn’t on our agenda, and dim lighting would have made it tricky anyway.
The shower room was tiny but functional, with toiletries provided. My husband quipped that using the toilet felt “like shitting in a caravan.” Thin toilet paper confirmed we’d done well to bring our own.
Positives? A washing machine and dryer in the basement, and the neighbourhood—Palermo Soho—was a dream: leafy streets, indie boutiques, and a vibe reminiscent of Amsterdam’s Jordaan or Manchester’s Ancoats.
Day One: Burgers and Urban Buzz
After settling in, hunger led us to Burger Joint, a five-minute walk away. A slice of NYC in Buenos Aires, graffiti-splashed walls and all.
Our picks:
- Classic: beef patty, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, mayo
- La Doble: double patties, double cheese, ketchup
- Fries, of course. Good, but NYC still holds the crown.
Day Two: Hop-On, Hop-Off Adventures
With one full day, efficiency was key. Enter the Yellow Buenos Aires Hop-On Hop-Off Bus—chosen over the Red Grayline for its Palermo Soho stop.
Tickets: £50 for two adults (24 hours). QR code for first boarding, then physical tickets for subsequent hops.
The route spans 22 stops. We managed two:
Cementerio de la Recoleta: hauntingly beautiful mausoleums, including Eva Perón’s resting place. We lingered 1.5 hours and could have stayed longer.
Mercado de San Telmo: the city’s oldest food market, brimming with culinary temptations we didn’t have time to savour.
The bus itself? Two decks, audio guides, live tracking via the website. Slow toward the end, but a solid way to map out future explorations.
Dinner at Don Julio: A Steakhouse Legend
Reservations at Don Julio are gold dust. We booked two weeks ahead, snagging a 7 pm slot after some juggling.
By evening, the place was buzzing. Even with a reservation, we queued—but the line moved fast. Our table was sidewalk-side, passersby brushing past.
The meal? Sublime.
- Bife de chorizo angosto (strip sirloin): thick, perfectly medium throughout—a feat of culinary precision.
- Chips: crisp outside, fluffy inside.
- Red wine: when in Argentina and eating steak, can anything else be considered?
Cost: about £90. Worth every penny.
Sweet Finale: Lucciano’s Gelato
On the way back, we stopped at Lucciano’s for gelato. Creamy, decadent, and the perfect end to a whirlwind day.
Final Thoughts
Buenos Aires is vast, layered, and intoxicating. Two nights barely skimmed the surface. Next time? At least four nights—to wander San Telmo’s market stalls, linger in Recoleta, and taste more of the city’s culinary soul.
Until then, we’ll dream of that steak and the hum of Palermo Soho’s cobbled streets.
Thanks for the shoutout to Comedy Travel Writing, glad my post was useful. And great write-up here. Those steaks look AMAZING.