Getting There: A Humbling Lesson in Patience
Our journey began in Buenos Aires, where Ezeiza International Airport reminded us that even British Airways Business Class doesn’t guarantee fast-track bliss. No priority security lane, no express immigration—just one lonely counter manned by an officer who seemed more interested in chatting than clearing the growing queue. The line stretched, tempers frayed, and heckles started flying. Immigration officers are not the people you want to mess with, so we waited it out. Over an hour later, we were finally airside.
A McDonald’s breakfast roll (miss sold as a McMuffin!) and a pit stop at the Centurion Lounge fuelled us for the short hop to Rio. The lounge was decent, but nothing to write home about—though after that queue, any seat felt like luxury.
Where We Stayed: Hilton Copacabana
For our first time in Rio, we wanted to be close to the action—Copacabana Beach. The Hilton Copacabana Beach delivered on location, if not on glamour.
Our Junior Suite on the 12th floor had a sweeping ocean view, a whirlpool bath, and plenty of space, though the décor whispered “update me.” Still, waking up to that beach view? Worth it.
Hilton Honors Gold perks (via our American Express Platinum card) secured us free breakfast and bottled water. No upgrade this time, but the view made up for it.
The Hilton Breakfast Diaries
Breakfast at the Hilton was a cultural adventure in itself. Beyond the usual omelette station and pastries, the buffet featured surprises like chicken nuggets, onion sauce, and Calabrese sausages. One morning, a hearty meat-and-pasta stew appeared—comfort food Brazilian-style.
We mostly stuck to coffee and fresh orange juice, saving room for Rio’s culinary treasures, but couldn’t resist fried eggs one day. Crispy bottoms, golden yolks, and butter so hard it needed coaxing to melt. It was simple, but satisfying.
Day 1: Rooftop Vibes & Tapas
Isabel Lounge on the 39th floor of the Hilton was our sunset spot for the first night.
On our early evening recce, it had an Ibiza vibe—poolside lounging, cocktails clinking—but by nightfall, it mellowed into the perfect setting for strong, lime-packed Margaritas and a Caipirinha finale.
What We Ate:
Garlic-grilled shrimp with focaccia – plump, juicy prawns bathed in olive oil and lemon, perfect for dipping with crisp bread.
Shrimp tempura with berry sauce – a playful twist, where sweet meets savory. The batter was light and crunchy, the prawns tender.
Chicken sticks with chimichurri mayo – dry on their own, but the herby sauce rescued them.
Fries in a mini fryer basket – classic comfort food, salty and addictive.
Cocktail Notes: The Margaritas were unapologetically tart, a jolt of lime that woke us up after a day of travel. The Caipirinha? Pure Brazilian sunshine in a glass.
Day 2: Beaches, Bakeries & Sugar Loaf Magic
We started at Mirante do Leblon, where the coastline provided spectacular views from Leblon to Pedra do Arpoador.
Wandering through Leblon and Ipanema, we stumbled upon Nema Padaria—a traditional and cute Portuguese bakery. There were rows of Pastéis de Nata tempting us, each with its caramelized crown.
We tried the Sonho Recheado with Nutella – a doughnut’s lighter cousin, dusted with sugar and filled with silky chocolate. Slightly dry, but the Nutella made up for it.
Later, gelato at Vero was a revelation.
My strawberry-lemon zest scoop was bright and refreshing, while the popcorn flavour was a creamy surprise with hints of caramel.
My husband went for fruity sorbets but found them more cooling than flavourful.
Sunset at Sugar Loaf (Pão de Açúcar)
Everything that I had read about visiting the Sugar Loaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro suggested that the best time to do this would be sunset. Not wanting to risk missing this, we extravagantly invested in Fast Track tickets.
Two cable cars, three-minute rides, and then—Rio in full panoramic glory. Hindsight is a wonderful thing – for the time of year (Autumn), it turned out that our priority indulgence was not required. Still for us it wasn’t worth the risk!
As the sun dipped behind the mountains, the city shimmered in a golden mist. This was the moment where we appreciated the magic of Rio.
Dinner at Nam Thai
Nam Thai was our chosen restaurant for our second night in Rio.
We were given a top spot window seat and didn’t hesitate in ordering a refreshing Bohemia Patagonia Pilsner.
The Thai flavours we tried from the menu:
Chicken satay with peanut sauce – smoky, tender, and perfectly paired with the rich sauce.
Prawn spring rolls – generously packed with shrimp, rice noodles, and shiitake mushrooms.
Khao Pad Bai Kaprow – a delicious and moist fried rice with chicken, chillies and a perfectly cooked fried egg (crispy bottom and gooey runny yolk).
Gaeng Moo Tai Po – a tasty Thai red curry with pork with creamy coconut base, mild spice, and tender meat.
Sticky rice – clung to the sauce like a loyal friend.
Day 3 Part 1: Cristo, Croissants & Lagoon Strolls
We took the Trem do Corcovado train to Christ the Redeemer, which was an experience in it’s own right particularly the return leg.
On the day we visited, the clouds played spoilsport, hiding the city view. Lesson learnt: check the webcam before you go!
The statue’s grandeur made the trip worthwhile.
Post-visit indulgence at La Bicyclette near Jardim Botânico:
There were many delicious looking choices but we settled on:
Almond croissant – flaky, buttery layers, though not as soft as its São Paulo cousin.
Apple tart – a triumph: glossy slices of apple on a biscuity base, sweet but balanced.
Crostine – delicate filo twists with bursts of chocolate, light and addictive.
Paired with a pink lemonade studded with berries, it was the perfect mid-morning treat.
We walked it off around Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, where cityscapes meet serenity.
Day 3 Part 2: The Meat Marathon
From the outset of our arrival at Fogo de Chão, the place was frantic. We were not accustomed to green-and-red coaster system so received a hurried demo. Flipping to green was the signal for the meat frenzy to commence. Turning to red meant breather required.
It was a carnivore’s carnival—sirloin, pork ribs, chicken legs, spicy sausage, and more. The salad bar was a rainbow of fresh produce, creamy potato salad, and even quail eggs.
Pão de queijo was warm, and cheesy; sweetbreads were… an acquired taste.
Day 4: Gelato Bliss and Dinner at a James Bond villain triad hideout
By day 4 we needed a rest. Clouds prevailed again but we persisted and bathed beneath them on Copacabana Beach. Making use of the loungers provided by the Hilton hotel.
Once it was clear that the sun had no plan of turning up we venture to Sorveteria Momo Gelato at Copacabana Palace to indulge in:
- Pistachio Persa – nutty, creamy perfection.
- Momo Bambino – vanilla swirled with chocolate and nuts, indulgent and dreamy.
- Romeo e Juliana – fruity and rich, a nod to Brazil’s love affair with guava and cheese.
Later that evening we visited Mr Lam. A Michelin-listed Chinese restaurant where the overall experience can only be described as underwhelming.
To start we ordered the Chicken Spring Rolls, Shrimp Prawn Rolls and Xiao Long Bao
.
The Shrimp spring rolls shone; packed full with the juiciest prawns and dipped in sesame seed at each end.
The chicken spring rolls aka chicken and cheese pasty.
Xiao Long Bao lacked the juicy soup, were over seasoned with pepper. Not even the black
vinegar could save them.
Although massive in size, the mains fell flat.
The Peking chicken lacked punch, no peanut fruity sweet sauce for this dish.
The (pricey) filet mignonette was melt-in-the-mouth but flavourless. Where was the garlic?
Service was attentive to the point of intrusive. We left wondering did we order the wrong dishes? Other diners seemed to be enjoying noodles, were these the secret?
Heading Home
At Rio airport there were three lounges – American Airlines Admiral Lounge, Plaza Premium Lounge and the GOL Lounge.
Of course we had to try them all —American Airlines Admiral Lounge won for service, showers and snacks.
Onboard British Airways, service sparkled: Champagne before takeoff, gin and tonics (heavy on tonic), and a solid meal capped with sticky toffee pudding. Johnny and Adam, the cabin crew, were stars.
Final Thoughts
Rio is a city of contrasts—breathtaking views, vibrant streets, and food that swings between sublime and so-so. Would we go back? Never say never. For now, these four nights gave us a taste of everything: beaches, mountains, flavours, and a dash of chaos.