Dublin Layover Part 1
Getting There: The Circuitous Path to America
Our first encounter with Dublin on this trip was more the product of airline reward strategy than of wanderlust. The goal? Securing our British Airways Gold Status for another year.
This meant piecing together an itinerary that, while perhaps baffling to the uninitiated, made perfect sense for the seasoned tier-point chaser: Manchester → London Heathrow → Dublin → Heathrow → JFK → Los Angeles, and back again, with a few hops in between.
This was to be our second “tier point run” that we, the first one involved Barcelona and Seattle.
Our starting point, Manchester Airport met us with its typical blend of chaos and British stoicism. This time, the Fast Track queue seemed more a suggestion than a promise, stretching our patience as much as our legs. The security ritual—tray after grey tray, belongings displayed for all—culminated, as ever, in the random bag pull (I know they are just doing their jobs).
The Escape Lounge offered a fleeting moment of calm; we barely had time for a quick drink before making our way to the gate, where a brief wait on the tarmac (mercifully dry, for Manchester) was required before boarding.
A short flight to Heathrow meant the familiar comforts of the BA First Lounge and its reliable buffet breakfast.
From there, it was a seamless hop to Dublin, enlivened by the acquisition of a couple of gin miniatures—small victories for the frequent flyer.
Staying at the Radisson Blu Dublin Airport
With an early flight looming, our logic was to stay close to the airport. The choice was between the Radisson Blu Hotel and the distinctly unglamorous Maldron, which had all the charm of a 1960s government office block. The shuttle bus, though less frequent than we’d hoped and made slower by the relentless Irish rain, eventually delivered us—sodden suitcases and all—to the Radisson.
Pricing at airport hotels is always a sore point. We managed to use points to temper the bill, bringing it below £200. Our AMEX Platinum status with Radisson meant a complimentary upgrade to a spacious King Room.
The room itself was modern, featuring a huge bed and thoughtful touches—a faux-leather sofa, coffee table, and a decent-sized shower. If you’re after convenience and a touch of comfort, it does the job, though you’ll pay for the privilege.
First Impressions: Swords and Malahide by Bus
Once settled, we decided to explore the nearby coastal town of Malahide. Public transport in Dublin, we discovered, demands either coins or a Leap card—no tap-and-go with credit here. A kindly bus driver took pity on us and ferried us to Swords, where we picked up a Leap card at SuperValu before continuing on to Malahide.
Pub Culture: Gibney’s of Malahide
Gibney’s is the epitome of a classic Irish pub—sprawling, atmospheric, and full of nooks. Even on a busy evening, service was swift if you staked out the right bit of bar.
We nabbed a table near the window, ordered a pint and a glass of Guinness (“a pint and a half” in local parlance), and paired them with King cheese & onion crisps. The pub has a lived-in comfort, perfect for people-watching or just soaking in the ambiance.
Dinner at Orchid Restaurant
Our pints finished, we wandered across the street to the Orchid Restaurant—a local Chinese spot offering an early bird deal (two starters and a main for around €28). The menu was surprisingly extensive.
Complimentary prawn crackers whetted our appetites, and we tucked into crispy spring rolls (more noodle and mushroom than pork, lifted by a necessary sweet & sour sauce), deep-fried chicken wings (crisp but a little overcooked and overly sweet from the honey), and juicy pan-fried pork dumplings with black vinegar.
We shared a main of chicken in black bean sauce with green pepper and onions—flavourful and satisfyingly fresh—on the side, a simple, egg-laden fried rice. Drinks included Sapporo beers and a reasonably priced Table Mountain Sauvignon Blanc.
Dublin Layover Part 2
Return Journey: Los Angeles to Dublin
Our second stopover in Dublin came after a whirl through Los Angeles and New York. En route, we collected a handful of memorable food moments: a exquisite breakfast in the Qantas lounge at LAX, the usual airline fare on American Airlines to JFK, and a pit stop in the Soho Lounge at JFK.
- Los Angeles Airport Qantas First Lounge
2. American Airlines Flight from LAX to JFK
3. Soho Lounge New York JFK
Hilton Charlemont Place: Rest by the Grand Canal
The Hilton Charlemont Place was our final sanctuary. Overlooking the tranquil sweep of the Grand Canal, it felt like an oasis after weeks of travel. The staff were genuinely warm, and our room a welcome retreat—just what we needed for our last night of the adventure.
Exploring Dublin’s Flavours
1. Kehoes
No visit to Dublin is complete without an iconic pub, and Kehoe’s is among its best.
We ordered a pint and a half once again, though the barman made it clear that “half a Guinness” is not quite the done thing and I was admonished. Paired with a packet of Manhattan Cheese & Onion crisps, this was the Dublin experience distilled.
2. Beshoff
With our whistle now wet, we moved on to the legendary Beshoff for takeaway fish & chips.
We decided to have a take away and return to the hotel. By the time we returned, the fish was still crisp and golden, the batter light, the chips thick and fluffy. Simple pleasures, impeccably done.
3. Fallon & Byrne
Fallon & Byrne is to Dublin what Dean & DeLuca is to New York City. An upscale grocery store with deli counters groaning under the weight of delicacies.
We browsed everything from premium meats to vibrant veg, but settled on the Torres Fried Egg crisps (“Huevo Frito”). These were a revelation—rich with egg yolk flavour, but to be enjoyed in moderation, lest you overwhelm your palate.
This is the type of place where only one weekly shop could lead to financial ruin like taking ones credit card to a casino.
4. Dunne Store in Rathmines
Our final stop was Dunnes Stores in trendy Rathmines. The butcher’s counter was a particular highlight, with beautiful steaks and burgers. We couldn’t resist taking some home.
Back in our own kitchen, these treats became the centrepiece of a celebratory meal—a fitting end to a food-focused journey.
5. British Airways (Dublin to Heathrow)
Our reluctant farewell to Dublin was sweetened by a gently-spiced curry chicken salad and a gin & tonic on the flight.
At Heathrow, there was just enough time for one last buffet rampage: a little of everything, from coffee cake to scoops of ice cream—because when you’re chasing tier points, you may as well chase dessert too.
Chasing Points, Collecting Memories
Travelling for tier points may seem mad, but it’s the unexpected moments that make it worthwhile—a friendly bus driver, a perfectly poured pint, or the taste of fried egg in crisp form. Dublin, for all its hustle, has a way of welcoming the weary traveller with open arms, good food, and a pint that’s always half full.